Comments on: Your “mandatory” Matterhorn climb http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/ Fanatic Blogging by Mountain Guides Wed, 18 Jan 2012 01:35:54 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.1.4 By: Z. http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/comment-page-1/#comment-1901 Z. Tue, 03 Aug 2010 18:15:00 +0000 http://www.climbbigmountains.com/?p=22#comment-1901 @Mike, depends on what experience you have. If you've done similar climbs unguided, then why not try this? But if so, why do you ask? You'd be climbig with a partner or solo? Soloing Matteerhorn is, well, dangerous. It can happen that the guide drags you down, but usually the guide is 10000 times more experienced than the client so there's a better chance of you falling and being saved by the guide's rope, than the other way around. Guides want to go fast. If you go much slower than them, then you're gonna run out of time and into trouble..... @Mike, depends on what experience you have. If you’ve done similar climbs unguided, then why not try this? But if so, why do you ask?

You’d be climbig with a partner or solo? Soloing Matteerhorn is, well, dangerous. It can happen that the guide drags you down, but usually the guide is 10000 times more experienced than the client so there’s a better chance of you falling and being saved by the guide’s rope, than the other way around.

Guides want to go fast. If you go much slower than them, then you’re gonna run out of time and into trouble…..

]]> By: Mike Harvey http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/comment-page-1/#comment-1893 Mike Harvey Tue, 27 Jul 2010 20:02:37 +0000 http://www.climbbigmountains.com/?p=22#comment-1893 Anyone done Hornli unguided?? I plan to do it at end August 2010, and really dont like the idea of a guided ascent at all. Without sounding too cocky i prefer to rely on my own instincts, fitness,skill, experience etc. as I have done on all my serious scrambles/climbs etc. I hear comments of I was dragged up/down like a dog on a lead. Also, being blunt whats to stop a guide taking a slip and dragging you all the way to the bottom with him/her? Having said that, I would value opinions. regds Mike Anyone done Hornli unguided??
I plan to do it at end August 2010, and really dont like the idea of a guided ascent at all. Without sounding too cocky
i prefer to rely on my own instincts, fitness,skill, experience etc. as I have done on all my serious scrambles/climbs etc.
I hear comments of I was dragged up/down like a dog on a lead.
Also, being blunt whats to stop a guide taking a slip and dragging you all the way to the bottom with him/her?
Having said that, I would value opinions.

regds Mike

]]> By: compare lcd tv http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/comment-page-1/#comment-1873 compare lcd tv Fri, 02 Jul 2010 23:39:01 +0000 http://www.climbbigmountains.com/?p=22#comment-1873 Excellent article and easy to understand explanation. How do I go about getting permission to post part of the article in my upcoming news letter? Giving proper credit to you the author and link to the site would not be a problem. Excellent article and easy to understand explanation. How do I go about getting permission to post part of the article in my upcoming news letter? Giving proper credit to you the author and link to the site would not be a problem.

]]> By: ClimbBig http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/comment-page-1/#comment-1832 ClimbBig Mon, 07 Jun 2010 07:14:30 +0000 http://www.climbbigmountains.com/?p=22#comment-1832 Yea Alex, some Swiss guides allow only 2 hours for clients to make it to Solvay Hut. It's at 4003 meters, a bit over half way to the summit with the more difficult half to go above the hut :) Yea Alex, some Swiss guides allow only 2 hours for clients to make it to Solvay Hut. It’s at 4003 meters, a bit over half way to the summit with the more difficult half to go above the hut :)

]]> By: Alex W http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/comment-page-1/#comment-1831 Alex W Mon, 07 Jun 2010 01:13:15 +0000 http://www.climbbigmountains.com/?p=22#comment-1831 In terms of time limits with the guide it's simple: you have three hours to get from the Hornlihutte to Solvay. There are plenty of good reasons for this: it's not a good sign of your strength if it takes you 3 hours to get a quarter of the way through the climb - plus as every minute passes, the combination of crowds and sunshine begin to increase the risk of rockfall. Guides *really* don't want to be on this mountain after noon and I certainly don't blame them. My only advice on the guide/non guide question is to say the routefinding is amongst the hardest I've ever seen. Quite simply: there is no way I could have found the route unguided. In terms of time limits with the guide it’s simple: you have three hours to get from the Hornlihutte to Solvay. There are plenty of good reasons for this: it’s not a good sign of your strength if it takes you 3 hours to get a quarter of the way through the climb – plus as every minute passes, the combination of crowds and sunshine begin to increase the risk of rockfall. Guides *really* don’t want to be on this mountain after noon and I certainly don’t blame them.

My only advice on the guide/non guide question is to say the routefinding is amongst the hardest I’ve ever seen. Quite simply: there is no way I could have found the route unguided.

]]> By: Matterhorn Climbing « Matterhorn Climbing http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/comment-page-1/#comment-1817 Matterhorn Climbing « Matterhorn Climbing Thu, 27 May 2010 08:32:23 +0000 http://www.climbbigmountains.com/?p=22#comment-1817 [...] experience you need when climbing the Matterhorn with a very experienced guide can be acquired by climbing a few basic 4000ers over the course of an [...] [...] experience you need when climbing the Matterhorn with a very experienced guide can be acquired by climbing a few basic 4000ers over the course of an [...]

]]> By: Charlie Crowley http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/comment-page-1/#comment-1766 Charlie Crowley Fri, 15 Jan 2010 18:53:22 +0000 http://www.climbbigmountains.com/?p=22#comment-1766 I was fortunate enough to climb the Matterhorn in the early 80's. It was well worth the effort. I used a guide on the Hornli route on October 1st ... late to be climbing this mountain. I was lucky with weather. A warm week melted the verglass from the week before. Our climb was clear, warm, and ... with NO other climbers in the morning! It is probably my favorite climb to date (I'm only in my 60's so there are surely more climbs to come) For those with the Matterhorn on your to do list ... keep it there! Do your preparation, hire a good guide, and that incredible climb is there for the taking. I'm sure you'll enjoy it as much as I did. I was fortunate enough to climb the Matterhorn in the early 80′s. It was well worth the effort. I used a guide on the Hornli route on October 1st … late to be climbing this mountain. I was lucky with weather. A warm week melted the verglass from the week before. Our climb was clear, warm, and … with NO other climbers in the morning! It is probably my favorite climb to date (I’m only in my 60′s so there are surely more climbs to come) For those with the Matterhorn on your to do list … keep it there! Do your preparation, hire a good guide, and that incredible climb is there for the taking. I’m sure you’ll enjoy it as much as I did.

]]> By: zsalti http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/comment-page-1/#comment-1761 zsalti Tue, 03 Nov 2009 19:43:05 +0000 http://www.climbbigmountains.com/?p=22#comment-1761 Hey Mike, sure thing… So: Route finding: indeed, it can be tricky. What you can do is hike up to the start of the route the previous afternoon and check things out in daylight. Or just follow someone in the dark who looks like they know what they’re doing… Yes, you can abseil some parts and there are fix ropes, metal rods to put your rope around and some places for slings… You really should start no later than 4am, as the afternoon can get stormy. But it’s better to leave earlier. Passing: there are some tricky parts where it’s dangerous to pass. In fact, what makes this a subjectively dangerous hill is people passing and kicking rocks on one another. Of course, you’ll have to overtake those who are slower, but… How long up and down? If you match up to Ueli Steck, you’ll be back in time for breakfast. Otherwise calculate 9-10-12 hours depending on your abilities, crowd, weather, your mood and the relative position of Mars to Jupiter (OK, that wasn’t funny). It’s really hard to tell withouth knowing you, how long you’ll take. You definitely shouldn’t go alone, though… Best wishes: Dan Hey Mike, sure thing…
So:
Route finding: indeed, it can be tricky. What you can do is hike up to the start of the route the previous afternoon and check things out in daylight. Or just follow someone in the dark who looks like they know what they’re doing…

Yes, you can abseil some parts and there are fix ropes, metal rods to put your rope around and some places for slings…

You really should start no later than 4am, as the afternoon can get stormy. But it’s better to leave earlier.

Passing: there are some tricky parts where it’s dangerous to pass. In fact, what makes this a subjectively dangerous hill is people passing and kicking rocks on one another. Of course, you’ll have to overtake those who are slower, but…

How long up and down? If you match up to Ueli Steck, you’ll be back in time for breakfast. Otherwise calculate 9-10-12 hours depending on your abilities, crowd, weather, your mood and the relative position of Mars to Jupiter (OK, that wasn’t funny). It’s really hard to tell withouth knowing you, how long you’ll take.

You definitely shouldn’t go alone, though…

Best wishes:
Dan

]]> By: Mike Harvey http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/comment-page-1/#comment-1759 Mike Harvey Tue, 03 Nov 2009 17:03:27 +0000 http://www.climbbigmountains.com/?p=22#comment-1759 Hi Dan, can you give me some advice on scaling the hornli route. Such as: I keep hearing comments on difficult route finding at the start(in the dark) whats your opinion? My strongest area is in descent. Can I abseil some of it? and are there lots of spikes etc for slings How long up and down in total Can I start at first light? Is it possible to pass people on the ridge if I'm moving fast? up and down thanks dan Hi Dan,
can you give me some advice on scaling the hornli route.
Such as:
I keep hearing comments on difficult route finding at the start(in the dark) whats your opinion?

My strongest area is in descent. Can I abseil some of it?
and are there lots of spikes etc for slings

How long up and down in total

Can I start at first light?

Is it possible to pass people on the ridge if I’m moving fast? up and down

thanks dan

]]> By: Dan http://blog.climbbigmountains.com/mountaineering-alps/climbing-the-matterhorn-mandatory/comment-page-1/#comment-1758 Dan Sun, 25 Oct 2009 08:40:15 +0000 http://www.climbbigmountains.com/?p=22#comment-1758 Go for it Mike! You may want to get used to grade 4 scrambles if you're in Snowdonia, that way the Matterhorn will feel easier. But the "climbing at severe level on rock" should do the trick too :) Hope you get good weather! Go for it Mike! You may want to get used to grade 4 scrambles if you’re in Snowdonia, that way the Matterhorn will feel easier. But the “climbing at severe level on rock” should do the trick too :)

Hope you get good weather!

]]>